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From cleat binding to channel binding — how you choose and execute the correct binding
A stone can significantly lift a piece of jewellery, but only if it is set correctly. Stone setting — also called setting or mounting — is about holding the stone secure, protecting it from impact and at the same time displaying it as best as possible. The trade includes several setting types, and the choice depends on the stone's shape, hardness and the look the jewellery should have.
Claw setting is probably the most well-known setting type and is named after the small metal claws that bend over the stone's edge and hold it in place. Because the claws only cover a small part of the stone most possible light gets in and out of the stone which gives maximum shine and reflection — therefore claw setting is a frequent choice for facet-cut stones like diamonds.
In a channel setting, several stones sit in a row inside a milled channel in the metal. The channel itself holds the stones in place, so there is no need for individual claws for each stone. The result is a smooth, continuous line of stones, often used in alliances and ring rails where you want to avoid protruding claws.
Tube setting surrounds the stone with straight, tube-shaped sides all the way around and protects it well from external impact — suitable for stones that are subjected to a lot of handling. Box setting instead covers the stone's edge (base) completely with metal. This makes the setting very robust, but because more metal covers the stone, less light enters, so the stone may appear slightly darker than in a claw setting.
| Setting type | Usually used for |
|---|---|
| Claw setting | Single stone where most light and shine is desired |
| Channel setting | Rows of small stones in alliances and ring blanks |
| Tube setting | Stone that must be protected well against impact and wear |
| Bezel setting | Robust fittings where durability weighs most |
Regardless of setting type, the work begins by measuring the stone precisely and preparing a seat in the metal that fits exactly. If the seat is too loose, the stone will rock or fall out; if too tight, the stone may crack when pressed into place. Once the stone is set, claws, channels or bezel are carefully closed around it — often using specialist tools that distribute pressure evenly so the stone is not stressed unevenly or cracked.
A good setting is not just seen from a distance — it is felt when you gently try to move the stone and it holds year after year without the stone loosening or falling out. That is the standard you work to as a gold and silversmith regardless of which setting type the task requires.