Beard and classical barbering

Beard and shaving have experienced a renaissance in many salons, but the technique behind is the same professional discipline barbers have used for generations. Unlike a haircut, you work directly with a sharp blade close to the skin, and this requires different control, preparation and hygiene than when cutting hair.

§Prepare the skin before the knife comes out

Beard stubble must be softened before it can be shaved cleanly and gently. A warm compress opens the skin's pores and lifts the hairs, and then barber soap or cream is applied with a barber brush in circular motions until a full creamy lather forms. The lather lifts the beard stubble away from the skin and gives the blade something to glide on so you avoid scraping directly against the skin.

• 01Warm towel wrapping for 1–2 minutes softens the beard and opens the pores.
• 02Shaving soap/cream is whipped with a brush to a thick, creamy lather — not just bubbles.
• 03The foam is applied in circular movements so the hairs stand up from the skin.
• 04The skin is held taut with the free hand, so the razor blade meets an even surface.

§The straight razor — grip and angle

On barber schools, a standard grip for the razor is taught, where the handle rests in the palm with fingers directing the blade, so you have both stability and fine motor control. The blade is typically guided at around 30 degrees to the skin — neither flat (which does not cut) nor too steep (which tears). The first pass is always shaved in the direction of hair growth to spare the skin the most; a possible second pass across or against growth gives a closer shave but at the same time increases the risk of irritation and ingrown hairs.

§Contours, neck and jawline

The technical difficult parts are the neck jawline and around the ear where the skin moves and changes direction. Here you work with short strokes and change angle as the skin curves and you often ask the customer to turn or lift their head so the skin stretches correctly in the area in question. A sharp well-defined contour around the beard is often what determines whether a beard looks well-groomed or sloppy — regardless of how well the beard itself is otherwise shaped.

§After treatment

When you are done the skin is rinsed with lukewarm water to remove soap residue and a cold compress pack closes the pores again. Finally a soothing product is applied – aftershave balm rather than alcohol-based aftershave is often gentler on skin that has just been under the knife and reduces the risk of stinging and irritation.

§Maintenance of the barber knife

• 01Always wipe blade and handle thoroughly after use so moisture does not remain and rust the steel.
• 02Ironing on a leather strap restores the edge between shavings, but does not replace grinding.
• 03Use disposable blades or correctly disinfected/sterilised tools between each customer – a barber's knife that has been in contact with skin is a tool with the same hygiene requirements as a scalpel.
• 04Store the knife dry and separate from other tools to avoid edge damage.

“A good treatment begins with a thorough analysis. When you systematically map the customer's skin and needs you hit more precisely and can explain your choices. Use the template as a conversation framework and as a note you can refer back to at the next visit.”