Permanent, straightening and chemical shaping of hair
The chemistry behind waves and smoothing
Permanent and chemical straightening are among the most intrusive treatments in the salon because they change the hair's internal structure for a longer time. This places stringent requirements on both your professional diagnosis and your care with the chemicals.
§The principle: break and recreate bonds
Hair form is held among other things by chemical bonds inside the strand. With permanent and straightening these bonds are first broken the hair is formed in the new style (wave or straight) and the bonds are recreated in the new form with a fixing product. The principle is the same – it is the direction that is different.
§Diagnosis before everything else
Hair condition and porosity determine whether it can tolerate treatment at all and how quickly it reacts. Previously bleached or severely damaged hair can be harmed. The diagnosis guides both product choice and working time – and sometimes the right answer is to say no.
- 01Assess hair condition porosity and previous chemical treatments.
- 02Keep an eye on the exposure time – overtreatment damages the hair.
- 03Make a list of the parts of the field you're least confident about
§Test and safety
As with colouring skin test and test locks are good practice. The products are strong and can irritate skin and airways so gloves ventilation and protection of the customer's skin on the neck and forehead are important. Rinse thoroughly afterwards so no residue remains.
§As needed
Chemically treated hair must be cared for to maintain its shape and strength. Advise the customer about gentle care and when the hair can withstand the next chemical treatment. Also explain that new growth over time will have the original shape.