Cutting techniques and the basic principles of haircuts

That cutting well is not about removing hair randomly, but about moving shape, weight and length where it creates the desired hairstyle. When you understand the underlying principles, you can replicate a cut on any head — and explain to the customer why you do what you do.

§Sections and division

Before you cut, you section the hair. A logical division gives you overview, even length and symmetry, and ensures you work systematically through the head instead of jumping around. One section is held with clips, and you cut one parting line at a time.

• 01Divide the hair into logical sections and hold them with clips.
• 02Work systematically from one side to the other.
• 03Use a parting line as a guide for the next parting line.

§Section angle and extraction angle

The angle you pull hair out from the head at determines where the weight lands. Pull hair straight out (high elevation) you remove weight and create lightness and layers. Hold hair close to the head's shape (low elevation) you retain weight and length. Consciously controlling the angle is what separates a controlled cut from a random one.

§Graduations and layering

The graduation is the transition between short and long lengths. A steep graduation gives marked layering and movement; a soft graduation gives a flowing, connected shape. The choice depends on the customer's wishes, hair type and face shape.

§Texturing

With texturing techniques such as point cutting and thinning you remove weight without changing the overall length. It is used to soften edges, remove weight in thick hair or create movement. Be careful: too much thinning makes hair difficult to style and can take years to grow out.

§Shape to head and face

The same technique doesn't suit everyone. Face shape, head profile, crowns and hair's fall direction determine what works. A skilled hairdresser adapts the hairstyle to the person rather than forcing a template over everyone.