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Extensions, hairpieces, and wigs

Methods, materials and how to avoid damaging hair

Extensions and hairpieces are one of the areas where the hairdressing trade crosses both technique and materials science. The customer sees only the result, but behind it lies a choice of method and hair quality that determines how natural the result looks, how long it lasts, and how safe it is for the customer's own hair.

§The most common methods

There are several techniques for attaching extensions and the choice depends on the customer's hair type desired durability and budget.

MethodHow the design brief becomes a designTypical shelf life
Tape extensionsTwo thin tape strips are glued together around thin hair lock lie flat against headMoved/replaced typically every 6–8 weeks
Keratin/hot fusionHair pieces melt firmly with a keratin bond at heat very discreet resultRequires training and professional installation/removal
Weft (thread/rail)A hair strip (weft) is sewn or attached to a clip in your own hairProvides great volume, durable mounting
Clip-inHard parts with clips the customer puts in and takes out themselvesTemporary – for individual occasions, not permanent wear

§Selection of hair quality

Extensions are made from either synthetic fiber or real hair. Synthetic hair is cheaper but doesn't withstand heat styling and becomes dull and matted quickly. High-quality real hair—often called Remy hair—is sorted so all hair strands point the same direction with the cuticle layer intact, which results in less matting and a more natural flow. The quality of the hair raw material directly affects how long the customer can enjoy the result.

§Maintenance and follow-up

  • 01Use sulphate-free shampoo and avoid rubbing attachment points hard when washing.
  • 02Brush gently from the tips upward to avoid pulling at the attachment points.
  • 03Avoid heavy oils and conditioners close to the attachment itself which can weaken the hold.
  • 04Book follow-up salon visit after 6-8 weeks when tape/keratin extensions are moved down as own hair grows.

§Wig and toupee

Where extensions are typically a fashion choice, a wig often meets a real need — for example after hair loss as a result of illness, treatment or hereditary baldness. Fitting a wig requires that you measure head shape correctly, choose ribbon construction (fully or partially hand-knotted gives the most natural hair attachment and movement) and fit edge and hairline to the customer's face. Here, the conversation with the customer is often as important as the craftsmanship itself — many customers getting a wig for the first time need time and security in the process.

The best result with extensions or wig is the one nobody notices as anything other than the customer's own hair.