Eyebrows and lashes — colouring and shaping in the salon

Eyebrows and lashes fall somewhere between the hairdressing trade and cosmetology, and many salons today offer shaping, colouring and lash lift as part of the complete look for the customer. Because the treatments take place so close to the eye, the demands for product selection and caution are sharper than most other treatments in the salon.

§Eyebrow shaping

Shaping typically happens through plucking, trimming of hair that is too long and possibly lamination where the eyebrow hairs are set in a desired direction with a mild chemical process similar to a mini-perm for eyebrow hair. Good shaping starts from the eyebrow's natural growth direction and the face's shape rather than a fixed template — like with cutting it is about adapting the technique to the individual customer.

§Coloring – why product choice is critical.

Hair colour eyebrow colour and lash colour are not the same product even if they look similar. According to the Knowledge Centre for Hairdressers and Danish consumer organisations colourants like PPD (paraphenylenediamine) which are common and legal in hair colour are not allowed in the same concentration in products designed for use close to the eye. Colour for eyebrows and especially eyelashes must therefore always be specifically approved and labelled for the purpose – never ordinary hair colour or a product designed for hair even in small amounts.

§Allergy test and PPD allergy

If a customer has previously reacted allergically to hair dye, there is a great risk that the same allergy is triggered by eyebrow and eyelash dye, because it is often the same types of dyes that are involved. Always ask about previous reactions to hair dye, permanent or other chemical products before dyeing eyebrows or eyelashes, and perform a skin test well before the treatment, just as with ordinary hair dyeing.

§Lash lift – what it is and how long it lasts

Lash lift lifts and curls the client's own lashes with a mild chemical process and a custom-molded pad, without adding false lashes. The result typically lasts up to six weeks, corresponding to the lash's own growth cycle. For the first 24 hours after treatment, the client should avoid water, steam and makeup in the eye area so the result can set properly.

§Contraindications – always ask before you start

“The closer a treatment comes to the eye, the less room there is to guess – product choice and history must be in place before you start.”