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Grading: dimension in different size

How much should each grade point move when the pattern should go two sizes up?

Answer: When a pattern is graded, each measurement grows by a fixed step per size. In many women's size charts breast width grows e.g. 4 cm per size in the middle sizes. The step applies the whole circumference, but a pattern is often drawn as half front and half back, so the step must be split over several places. The calculator finds the measurement in the new size and how much each grading point should move. You get the steps from your own size chart.

Formula

Nyt mål = grundmål + spring × antal størrelser

Flytning pr. sted = spring ÷ antal steder springet fordeles på

Et halvt forstykke og et halvt rygstykke skæres dobbelt, så en hel omkreds har 4 sidelinjer: 4 cm spring = 1 cm pr. sted

Symbols and units in the formula
SymbolMeaningUnit
grundmaalMeasurement in the basic size (e.g. chest width)cm
springGrade per size (whole circumference)cm
trinSizes up (+) or down (−)str.
delePlaces grade is distributed on (e.g. 4: sides on half front and back piece, two sides)steder
=Measurement in the new sizecm
=Total changecm
=Moving per location per sizecm
=Total movement per locationcm

Validity and source

Source
Competence objective: calculation of target sheets · grading

Does not apply when

  • The grade is not the same in all sizes: in large sizes it is often larger than in medium sizes. Calculate the desired distribution of necessary grade so medium and small sizes get the full grade on smaller pieces.

Worked example

The calculator's own default values inserted. The figures are calculated with exactly the formula the tool uses.

Substituted

  • Measurement in the basic size (e.g. chest width)92 cm
  • Grade per size (whole circumference)4 cm
  • Sizes up (+) or down (−)2 str.
  • Places grade is distributed on (e.g. 4: sides on half front and back piece, two sides)4 steder

Giver

  • Measurement in the new size100.0 cm
  • Total change8.0 cm
  • Moving per location per size1.00 cm
  • Total movement per location2.00 cm

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Sådan bruger du den

Når et mønster skal laves i flere størrelser, skal du vide, hvor meget hvert punkt flyttes. Springet står i målskemaet for hele omkredsen, men på mønsteret fordeles det på flere steder.

Step by step

  1. Find springet pr. størrelse i målskemaet, fx 4 cm brystvidde.
  2. Gang springet med antal størrelser op eller ned. Det er den samlede ændring.
  3. Tæl hvor mange steder springet fordeles: halvt forstykke og halvt rygstykke skåret dobbelt giver 4 sider.
  4. Del springet med antal steder. Det er flytningen pr. gradepunkt pr. størrelse.

Typical errors

  • At flytte hele springet på ét mønsterstykke. Så bliver den ene side for stor.
  • At bruge samme spring i alle størrelser. I store størrelser er springet ofte større.

Examples from everyday life

Fra 38 til 42

Et kjolemønster i størrelse 38 har en brystvidde på 92 cm. Det skal graderes to størrelser op med 4 cm spring.

Measurement in the basic size (e.g. chest width)
92 cm
Grade per size (whole circumference)
4 cm
Sizes up (+) or down (−)
2 size
Places grade is distributed on (e.g. 4: sides on half front and back piece, two sides)
4 places

It means: Brystvidden bliver 100 cm, en ændring på 8 cm. Hvert sidepunkt flyttes 1 cm pr. størrelse, i alt 2 cm.

Hoftevidde en størrelse ned

Et buksemønster har en hoftevidde på 100 cm. Det skal en størrelse ned med 5 cm spring, fordelt på 4 steder.

Measurement in the basic size (e.g. chest width)
100 cm
Grade per size (whole circumference)
5 cm
Sizes up (+) or down (−)
-1 size
Places grade is distributed on (e.g. 4: sides on half front and back piece, two sides)
4 places

It means: Hoftevidden bliver 95 cm. Hvert punkt flyttes -1.25 cm. Minus betyder, at punktet flyttes ind.

Rule of thumb

4 cm spring i omkredsen = 1 cm pr. side på halvt for- og rygstykke.

How to check the answer

Flytning pr. sted gange antal steder skal give springet.