Materials machines and tools

Fabric is the garment maker's raw material, and different fabrics behave very differently. What works on a heavy wool may not work at all on a smooth silk or stretchy jersey. Therefore, good craftsmanship begins with knowing your material — and choosing technique and equipment accordingly.

Fabrics are roughly divided into natural fibres and synthetic fibres. Natural fibres come from plants and animals, synthetic fibres are produced industrially. Many fabrics are blends that combine properties — for example, cotton with a little elastane for stretch. Understanding fibre properties helps in both sewing, pressing and care.

• 01Thread in various thicknesses and materials adapted to the fabric
• 02Zips, buttons, hooks and push buttons
• 03Inlay and lining that give the garment form and structure
• 04Elastic, tape and binding for finishes.

The ordinary sewing machine is the trade's workhorse, but there are many specialist machines. The overlock machine (serger) sews and finishes a seam in one pass, so the fabric doesn't ravel, and is used a lot for stretch fabrics. In addition there are machines for buttonholes, buttons and special seams. Choosing the right machine for the task saves both time and gives a better result.

• 01Good fabric scissors — for fabric only, so it stays sharp
• 02Measuring tape ruler and tailor's chalk
• 03Button needles needles and seam ripper
• 04Iron and pressing cushion for shaping

The point is that the material determines everything else. A thin, smooth fabric requires fine needles, low tension and careful handling; a heavy, elastic fabric requires different needles, different stitches and perhaps an overlock machine. Therefore, material knowledge is not an appendix to the craft — it is the prerequisite for choosing correctly. Those who know their materials avoid most mistakes before they arise.